End of the Season! Bishop 04/29/11-05/01/11

With the weather beginning to heat up, the Bishop season looked like it was all but over. I was out there  about two weeks ago and the snakes were out, the weather was hot, and it only looked like it was going to get hotter. With the school semester finally coming to an end, I was getting anxious to try and get outside one more time before the 100 degree East San Francisco Bay days started. Browsing the web I happened to check the weather for Bishop, and it almost seemed too good to be true. Over the weekend it was supposed to be in the low 60's and 70's, with strong winds! I instantly jumped on it and called my friend Wes Miraglio and we planned the trip and headed out.

Friday morning began with what is becoming to feel like a religious drive will all intentions on climbing that evening after the six and a half hour haul. Once we arrived in Bishop the weather was just as beautiful as the weather man predicted and the climbing looked great. FINALLY feeling back in shape I couldn't wait to try the Buttermilker Sit (V13) again to see how I could do. At the end of last season I was able to send the stand (V12) and put together the sit in two parts, so getting on it this season was a little bit of a show of strength for me to see where I was at. Sure enough after about 30 minutes of relearning the moves, I was able to do the climb in two parts again. Then I had the tough decision: spend the whole weekend on the climb in the hopes of doing it, or try and send the climbs that I had been close on this season. After the physical abuse that the Buttermilker hands out, on your fingers and your whole body, I decided that I should try and put to rest some unfinished climbs, and wait until next season to finish the Buttermilker.

After my attempts on the Buttermilker, Wes wanted to go over to the Grandma Peabody and try Center Direct (V10), and after a few tries he was falling just short of sticking the one hard move on the climb. He wagered his options and went with the idea to save his energy for Saturday's full day, and his hopeful accent of Acid Wash (V10). After giving some moral support and the sun finally dipping behind Mt. Tom, it was time to go and try project number one; The Sharma Traverse (V11). This has always been a goal of mine since one of my first trips to Bishop. However, it has continuously broken making the holds and the sequence ever changing. The climb follows a steep low traversing arete, with very large moves to an incredible difficult and physical top-out. After a quick warmup I fell off of the top-out twice, and after a short rest, I was able to finally send the boulder problem. Once my 7:30p.m. accent was complete it was time to call it a day.

The Sharma Traverse V11.

Saturday morning started out just as any climber could hope; not hot by any means but yet not cold either, and just a slight breeze to ensure that your hands and body would stay nice and cool. We headed up to the Happies so Wes could finish up Acid Wash (V10). He ran through all of the moves a few times, just to make sure he was warmed up enough and that there were no surprises, and after a few attempts on the first move, he sent. As soon as Wes got back down to the ground we packed up and headed out.

Next stop Bardini Boulders and A Maze of Death! I had VERY high hopes going into this climb as I had been on it just a few weekends before and I was able to do all of the moves. Well, things don't always go as planned. My finger tips were still a little bit raw from the trip just a week before to Bishop and the small crimps were to much for me this time. We then went to one of the most amazing looking and climbing boulders in Bishop,  Zen Flute (V10) in Dale's Camp. Zen Flute climbs a ever so slightly overhanging face on small holds with a massive all points off dyno at the end. I must have climbed up to that last move 20 or 25 times just to repeatedly fall off the dyno. After mindlessly staring at the wall looking for any new beta that might help me out, I finally saw a new sequence that might help me unlock this amazing problem. Sure enough it did! With a massive leap through the air I was able to stick the jug right handed swing around and back into the wall, then with a little yell out of fear, excitement, and satisfaction I topped-out. Its been a while time since I have truly been excited to send V10, but this one was different. With how amazing the boulder is, the amount of attempts it took me, and the shear excitement of the climb I absolutely felt the sense of accomplishment that makes climbing so great!

Sunday, final day in Bishop for the season! Everyone knows that climbing in Bishop three days in a row is like torture for your fingers. So, with projects out of the question, we decided it was a good idea to go and check out a new area, the Druid Stones. After our 45 minute hike from the parking lot over one false hill top and another, I came to the conclusion that Wills Young put in the guide book that it was 20-45 minutes just to get people interested, because it took 20 minutes at a good pace to get down! Anyways, Wills is a great guy with an excellent guide book that lead us to a stunning area. While the hike is more than most boulderers are willing to do, the climbing is without a doubt some of the best in Bishop. I had always heard good things about a climb called Denton's Remorse (V10) and couldn't wait to check it out. The climb starts extremely low with two very uncomfortable undercling moves to a supposed V7 stand that proved to be quite difficult. After a little bit of work, I finally figured out the beta and was able to execute and send yet another amazing climb on this trip.

Tips shredded, bodies sore, psych way up in the air, it was time to call it a day and head home. One of the greatest things about Bishop is the amount of hard problems that are there. It seems to be never ending, and I will, without a doubt countdown the days until next season!

As for what's next for me: South Africa! I have finally bought my ticket and it is now official! I arrive in Cape Town in the beginning of July after three weeks in Italy and then I will be there until the second week of August. This is going to be my longest bouldering trip that I have ever taken and I am really looking forward to seeing just how far I can push myself.

Weekend Trip to Bishop 4/08/11-04/10/11

This past weekend I went on a short trip to Bishop with my girlfriend Emily and Gregor Peirce. As we left the Bay Area Friday morning we had high hopes for a good weekend of sending. My fingers are finally feeling healthy again and I have been able to start back into my training.

After our seven hour drive, with most of it being through a snow storm we arrive in Bishop to witness about seven more hours of snow that lasted well into the night. With our hopes hanging in the wind that the weather would be good in the morning we called it a night to prepare for what hopefully would be a good day.

Saturday morning started off with perfect conditions and no effects from the previous nights snow. We headed straight to the Happies so I could try and put down a long standing project, Bubba Lobotomy (V12). I started trying this climb when I was in the middle of dealing with my finger injuries earlier this season, and right away I was falling off the last move. I was instantly psyched and pleasantly surprised with how I was climbing and I thought for sure that I could do it that day. Well it didn't go quite as planned. The climb is a 12 move traverse that climbs through many two finger pockets that destroy your fingers, all capped off with a huge heartbreaking move and a double clutch to catch the finish holds. Being a route climber my whole life I thought that there was no way that I would fall off of the finishing move more than maybe one or two times, since I am so used to having to try really hard while pumped, but man was I surprised. All in all I ended up taking about 20 falls from the last move, and one time with both of the finish holds in my hands!

Anyway, with all things considered, the final move had definitely gotten inside my head. After a good warm up we headed up to the climb. I rehearsed the finish move one time, and then I was quickly able to dispatch the climb on my first try!

(Bubba Lobotomy V12)

(Very poor quality, for better quality go to

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i5JP7FUGya8)

After the send we left the Happies and headed up to the Bardini boulders to try and see if we could have a rare post winter attempt on A Maze of Death. Surprisingly enough almost all of the snow had melted on the hike up and it was no problem getting there. When we reached the boulder we found Dan Beall removing toilet paper from the holds as he was attempting to dry them. After a somewhat successful effort Dan decided that he would just try to skip the wet holds, and in doing that, he came up with the most absurd beta that looked physically impossible. After a few heartbreaking attempts falling on the last move he had to call it a day.

Gregor and I also found success on the boulder problem. While neither one of us sent, we were both able to make somewhat quick work on all of the moves, before having to stop because of our bleeding fingers. We both left the boulder with a very high psych, lots of confidence and a digging desire to return and finish it off. 

Saturday night consisted of the usual; try and find something to kill time so that the morning comes and you can climb again. So this time we decided to go bowling with our friend Wes Miraglio, and keep in mind, none of us bowl with any regularity. We bowled two games and Gregor quickly jumped out to a huge lead in both games, only to have me chase him down in the later frames! :-) 

Sunday rolled around and with our tips already shredded, we made the best of it. Gregor was finally able to unlock the secret beta on the Sharma Traverse (V11) and was kind enough to share it with me. With the afternoon sun creeping over the boulder ever so quickly we had to end our attempts on it as the sloppers were getting harder and harder to hold. 

We left Bishop feeling successful and eager to get back. On our way back home we stopped in South Lake Tahoe for some pizza. Right as we sat down to eat, a little boy came running by our table, gave a little bit of a stutter step, stopped, turned to his parents and said, "I farted," and kept on running out the door.  

(HighGear SolarPod charging my phone back at 

the camp site)

Scott